Loss, acceptance and letting be...

The transition back to Lake Atlantic. It was a fun-filled afternoon and early evening || Somewhere in New Jersey

As I was too tired to stay out there, (4 hrs of surfing will do that to ya...) I stayed ashore and watched the evening light as two dudes shared this peak. I was joined by Anthony. He told me a couple times how he was 52 years old. He also told me about his exploits surfing all over the Jersey shore, past sponsorships, and many good sessions. He then told me about how he lost a lot...his wife and his house in a divorce. He still maintains his relationship with his two kids and surfing though. These are his savings grace. "At least I'm still surfing at 52." His face lights up, the crows feet along both eyes deepen as he smiles. He spoke very matter of fact. Seeing as I've personally been working on acceptance it was appropriate. This dude had been through the ringer and dealt with a lot of loss, but it was okay. Well, it was what it was. And que sera, sera. Thanks for the company Anthony, I hope to share some slides with you in these cold waters in the future. If not, keep paddling until you can't. S'wat I'm doin'...don't know any other way.